World City Guide

After a fifty-year lull, Berlin is back – back as the capital of a reunified Germany and back as one of Europe’s greatest cities. After World War II, Berlin was a crippled pawn, sandwiched between East and West, with a literal and metaphoric wall deeply dividing the two halves. The northeastern German city even suffered the ignominy of losing its capital status, as the West German government fled to Bonn. Today, the Cold War and the iconic events of November 1989, which saw the Berlin Wall torn to pieces by those whom it had oppressed for so long, are starting to seem like a distant memory and all the talk in Berlin is of the future.

In the biggest construction project in Europe since World War II, a new Berlin has emerged from the forest of cranes dotting the no-man’s land that was the divided city’s dead heart. Potsdamer Platz is the most voluminous project but the most symbolic recent construction is at the Reichstag. British architect Lord Foster has rejuvenated the German parliament with an impressive glass dome that symbolises the new transparency in German politics – that of a nation with nothing to hide, which is attempting to distance itself from the ghosts of its past.

Coupled with this wave of new construction is a city laden with historical charm – from the old streets of East Berlin, which are slowly being restored after remaining unchanged for 50 years, through to the grand architecture of Museumsinsel and Unter den Linden, and the green lung of the Tiergarten Park. Tourism is on the rise, as visitors come to savour the intoxicating mix of old and new. Big business, too, is booming, as government bodies flock back from Bonn and relocate in the capital, along with investment from many other parts of the country and from all over Europe. Key industries such as electronics, manufacturing and information technology reflect the hopes for a brighter future for Berlin.

Contrary to the usual clichés about Germany, Berlin is a city with a laid-back attitude and some of the liveliest nightlife in Europe. In Berlin today, there is everything from authentic beer halls and old Soviet era haunts right through to buzzing style bars and Latino nightclubs. Berlin’s climate is equally eclectic, with hot summer days giving way to occasionally freezing temperatures during the long grey winter. Today’s quintessential Berlin experience is to laze through a summer day in the Tiergarten with the rabble of construction just out of earshot, sipping on a chilled Pilsner beer, while witnessing a city reinventing itself as one of Europe’s finest capitals.

Getting There By Air

Berlin-Tegel (Otto Lilienthal) (TXL)
Tel: (01805) 000 186 (charged at 12 cents per minute)
Website: www.berlin-airport.de

The airport is located in northwest Berlin, eight kilometres (five miles) from the city centre. Tegel primarily serves Western European destinations, handling flights from 36 scheduled airlines flying to 84 destinations and 26 charter airlines flying to 62 destinations.

Major airlines: Lufthansa is Germany’s principal airline (tel: (01803) 803 803, for 24-hour call centre or (01803) 000 074, for arrivals and departures; website: www.lufthansa.com). Other airlines flying to Tegel include Air Berlin Air France, Alitalia, Austrian Airlines, British Airways, Continental Airlines, CSA Czech Airlines, Deutsche BA, Iberia, KLM, LOT Polish Airlines, Malév, Olympic Airways and Turkish Airlines. Two new low-cost airlines, Germanwings and Hapag-Lloyd Express, both provide frequent services from Berlin to Cologne/Bonn.

Airport facilities: The airport offers two snack bars, a bistro, a champagne bar and a restaurant. Other facilities include a post office, bank/bureaux de change, ATMs, florist, newsagents, duty-free shops, left-luggage, baby-care rooms, 24-hour first aid, travel agents, tourist information and clothing shops. There are Novotel and Holiday Inn hotels near the airport. Car hire is available from Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz, National and Sixt.

Business facilities: The LSG conference centre (tel: (030) 4101 3316), located on the third floor, has four function rooms with a capacity of up to 150 people, as well as a media centre with photocopier, fax, computers with Internet access and printers. Secretarial and translation services can be arranged. The GSS Airport Service Center (tel: (030) 4101 3434), opposite gates nine and ten, provide fax services for public use. There are also four business lounges in the airport, located in the Airport Gallery, above the main hall.

Transport to the city: The JetExpressBus TXL, operated by Berlin’s public transport provider, BVG (see Getting Around), leaves the airport every 15 minutes daily 0600–2310, travelling to Potsdamer Platz, Friedrichstrasse and Unter den Linden (journey time – 20–25 minutes). The fare is ¬2.10. Bus 128 connects to the U6 line at Kurt-Schumacher-Platz, while bus 109 and express bus X9 depart every five to ten minutes daily 0500–2400 and connect to the U7 at Jakob-Kaiser-Platz, before continuing on to Bahnhof Zoo (journey time – 30 minutes on the X9 bus). Taxis are plentiful at the airport and there is a taxi rank immediately outside the arrivals’ hall. The fare into Berlin is approximately ¬15–20.

Berlin-Schönefeld (SXF)
Tel: (01805) 000 186 (charged at 12 cents per minute).
Website: www.berlin-airport.de

The airport is located in the southeast of the city, 18km (11 miles) and 22km (13.5 miles) from the Eastern and Western centres respectively. Schönefeld was the primary airport for East Berlin and now handles flights mainly to Eastern Europe and Asia, as well as many charter flights to summer destinations. Some 23 scheduled airlines fly to 53 destinations, while 41 chartered airlines fly to 59 destinations.

Major airlines: Air Berlin (tel: (1801) 737 800; website: www.airberlin.de) is the principal German airline operating from Schönefeld. Other airlines include Aeroflot, Condor, El Al and Turkish Airlines.

Airport facilities: The airport has a restaurant, bars, florist, post office, bank/bureau de change, ATMs, newsagents, duty-free shop and first-aid facilities. Services available 24 hours a day include left-luggage, snack bar, nursery and hotel reservations. There are Aparthotel and Albergo hotels located near the airport. Car hire is available from Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and Sixt.

Business facilities: As well as one business lounge in Terminal A, conference rooms are available at the Konferenzzentrum Flughafen Berlin-Schönefeld GmbH (tel: (030) 6091 2222), a ten-minute walk from the terminal. Fax facilities are available at special credit card telephones and at the information desk in Terminal A.

Transport to the city: The easiest way for visitors to get into the city is with the AirportExpress Schönefeld train, which is operated by DB (see Getting There By Rail) and runs every 30 minutes Monday to Friday 0510–0140, Saturday and Sunday 0540–0140. The train stops at four stations in East Berlin before terminating at Bahnhof Zoo (journey time – 30 minutes). The fare is ¬2.10. The airport station is located half a kilometre (0.3 miles) from the airport and there is a free shuttle bus connecting the two, running every ten minutes, daily 0430–2330. The station is also served by S-Bahn trains 9 and 45, as well as some mainline and local rail services. Bus 171 connects the airport with the U7 U-Bahn line at Rudow. Taxis are available 24 hours a day and cost approximately ¬30–35 (journey time – 30 minutes).

Berlin-Tempelhof (THF)
Tel: (01805) 000 186 (charged at 12 cents per minute).
Website: www.berlin-airport.de

The airport is located in the south of the city, three kilometres (two miles) south of Potsdamer Platz. Activities are fairly moderate here, with 15 scheduled airlines serving 25 destinations and five charter airlines serving a total of nine destinations. Most flights are on smaller jets to short-haul domestic and European destinations.

Major airlines: Germany’s principal airline, Lufthansa (tel: (01803) 803 803, for 24-hour call centre or (01803) 000 074, for arrivals and departures; website: www.lufthansa.com), operates from Berlin-Tempelhof. Other airlines serving the airport include City Air, Eurowings and Luxair.

Airport facilities: The airport offers three lounges, snack bars, florist, bank/bureau de change, ATMs, newsagents, duty-free shop, left-luggage, first aid, hairdresser, baby-care room, tax refund office and travel agents. The Hotel am Columbiadamm is situated near the airport. Car hire is available from Avis, Europcar, Hertz, Budget, National, Sixt and Westfehling.

Business facilities: There are a couple of small conference rooms and a 200-seat auditorium offered by TAG Aviation (tel: (030) 6951 3880) and LSG (tel: (030) 4101 3626). Fax facilities are available at special credit-card telephones.

Transport to the city: The airport is directly connected to Berlin’s public transport system (see Getting Around), including the U-Bahn network on the U6 line (the station is Platz der Luftbrücke and not, as would be expected, Tempelhof), with quick connections to the city centre (journey time – 10–20 minutes). Bus 119 departs every ten minutes to the Ku’damm area, while buses 104, 184 and 341 (to Potsdamer Platz) also stop near the airport. Nightbuses N4 and N76 leave from Platz der Luftbrücke. Tickets cost ¬2.10. Taxis are available in front of the main hall for around ¬12.

Approximate flight times to Berlin: From London is 1 hour 45 minutes; from New York is 8 hours 25 minutes; from Los Angeles is 11 hours 45 minutes; from Toronto is 8 hours 30 minutes and from Sydney is 21 hours 55 minutes.

Arrival/departure tax: Included in the ticket price.

Getting There By Water

Getting There By Road

Germany is covered by an excellent and extensive system of major roads (prefixed ‘B’) and motorways (prefixed ‘A’ for Autobahn). There are no tolls or speed limits on the Autobahnen but a maximum of 130kph (81mph) is recommended. Speed limits are 130kph (81mph) or 100kph (62mph) on major and minor roads outside the cities and 50kph (30mph) in built-up areas. Traffic drives on the right. Seatbelts must be worn at all times and children under 12 are forbidden to travel in the front seat without a child restraint.

The minimum age for driving is 18 years. Foreign drivers require proof of insurance and their national driving licence. A Green Card is strongly recommended. A country identification sticker is compulsory. The legal maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%. Leaded petrol is unavailable; unleaded petrol with a lead additive can be found at some petrol stations.

The Allgemeine Deutsche Automobil Club – ADAC (tel: (01805) 101 112; fax: (01805) 302 928 (both charged at 12 cents per minute); website: www.adac.de) provides breakdown services throughout the country. In the Berlin area, Auto Club Europa – ACE (tel: (01802) 336 677; website: www.ace-online.de) can also offer assistance.

Emergency breakdown services:
ADAC (01802) 222 222
ACE (01802) 343 536

Routes to the city: The A10 is an orbital motorway that entirely circles the city. The A111 and A115 connect this to the A100 – which wraps part way around the Western centre – from the north and south, respectively. The main roads leading to Berlin from outside the orbital are the A24 (from Hamburg), A9 (from Leipzig and Munich), A13 (from Dresden), A12 (from the Polish border) and A2 (from Hanover, from where the A7 connects to the A5 toward Frankfurt am Main in the south).

Approximate driving times to Berlin: From Hamburg – 3 hours 15 minutes; Dresden – 2 hours 25 minutes; Frankfurt am Main – 5 hours 50 minutes.

Coach services: Eurolines international coach services to over 300 destinations are operated by Bayern Express & P Kühn Berlin GmbH (tel: (030) 860 960; website: www.deutsche-touring.com or www.bex-berlin.de). Destinations include Paris, Strasbourg, Vienna and London, and more locally, Frankfurt, Hamburg and Munich. Buses on both international and domestic routes arrive at the Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof (ZOB) am Funkturm, Masurenallee, near the western end of the Ku’damm and the Messe Berlin. The station has a restaurant and snack bar; information and tickets are available from the ZOB-Reisebüro (tel: (030) 301 0380; fax: (030) 3010 3820) daily 0630–2100. Taxis are available and the U-Bahn Kaiserdamm and S-Bahn Witzleben stations are located nearby. There is a general coach information line (tel: (01805) 250 254 (charged at 12 cents per minute)).

Getting There By Rail

Deutsche Bahn (tel: (0800) 150 7090; website: www.bahn.de), Germany’s national rail service provider, operates a comprehensive and efficient rail service, including high-speed InterCityExpress (ICE) trains. There is a national railway enquiries line (tel: 11861 (within Germany) or (01805) 996 633 (from outside Germany, costing 12 cents per minute)). There is a separate hotline for cyclists who wish to take their bikes on the train (tel: (01805) 151415 (charged at 12 cents per minute)).

Until the massive new station, Bahnhof Lehrter– which will link the main north–south and east–west lines – is completed in 2006, the busiest station in Berlin will continue to be Bahnhof Berlin Zoologischer Garten (or, simply, ‘Bahnhof Zoo’), Hardenbergplatz 11 (tel: (030) 2974 9241; fax: (030) 2974 9159), in the western centre of the city. Facilities include a travel centre (open daily 0600–2200), tourist information, post office, bank, restaurant, buffet, café, shops, florist, newsagents and left-luggage. Ticket and information offices at Bahnhof Schonefeld, near the airport, are open daily 0530–2200 (tel: (030) 2972 9528; fax: (030) 2972 9654). The other major mainline stations are Bahnhof Lichtenberg, Weitlingstrasse 22, and Ostbahnhof, Am Ostbahnhof 9, in East Berlin. Some mainline services also stop at Bahnhof Spandau, to the west, and Bahnhof Wannsee, in the southwest.

Rail services: Berlin is part of the InterCityExpress (ICE) network, with super-fast trains to Hanover (journey time – 1 hour 35 minutes) and Frankfurt am Main (journey time – 3 hours 30 minutes). ICE trains also go to Hamburg – at present these trains cost more and their running time is little faster than the other services (journey time – 2 hours 10 minutes). An expanding web of high-speed trains serves destinations across Western Europe. Supplements are incurred for travel on ICE, IC and EC trains.

Transport to the city: The main stations are all located on the S-Bahn spine, which arches from west to east across the city. Connections to the U-Bahn network and north–south S-Bahn lines are available either directly or via a short journey on the main east–west line. Taxi ranks and buses are also available outside the main stations.

Getting Around

Public Transport
Berlin has a highly integrated transport system comprising U-Bahn (underground), S-Bahn (commuter rail), bus, tram and ferry services, with easy connections to regional and mainline rail services. The Verkehrsverbund Berlin-Brandenburg (VBB), Hardenbergplatz 2 (tel: (030) 2541 4141; fax: (030) 2541 4112; e-mail: info@vbbonline.de; website: www.vbbonline.de), co-ordinates activities among the Berlin transport providers and those of the surrounding region.

Berlin’s Eastern and Western city centres are linked by the main east–west axis of the S-Bahn, which is crossed by the north–south lines at Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse and intersects the S-Bahn ring at Bahnhof Westkreuz and Bahnhof Ostkreuz. Operated by S-Bahn Berlin GmbH (tel: (030) 2974 3333; website: www.s-bahn-berlin.de), which has offices at Nordbahnhof (tel: (030) 2971 9843) or 2974 3333), the trains run daily 0500–0030; the S1 and S7 run around-the-clock at the weekend.

The other public transport services are operated by the Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe – BVG (tel: (030) 19449 or 2562 2562; e-mail: info@bvg.de; website: www.bvg.de) and generally run daily 0600–2300. There are nine U-Bahn lines, which operate daily 0500–0030; the U9 and U12 run around-the-clock at weekends. Bus services crisscross the city, while the network of 28 trams only operates in East Berlin. There are three seasonal and three year-round ferry services to the ports of Hamburg, Kiel, Lubeck and Rostock, which are linked by road and rail to Berlin. The BVG has an information centre in the pavilion at Hardenbergplatz, in front of Bahnhof Zoo (open daily 0600–2200), as well as a counter at Tegel airport.

Tickets are priced for either two or three zones – almost all visitors will use the AB tariff. The standard single fare is ¬2.10, valid for two hours on all forms of transport. A short journey costs ¬1.20 (valid for three S-Bahn/U-Bahn stops or six bus/tram stops). Nearly all tickets are available for purchase from automated machines at stations and stops, as well as from service desks and, in the case of buses, from the driver. Bus drivers only sell day tickets, two-hour and short distance tickets.

A number of passes are also available. A day ticket, valid until 0300 on the following day of purchase, costs ¬6.10. Seven-day tickets are valid until 2400 on the seventh day and cost ¬22. Available from the tourist information office (see Sightseeing), the WelcomeCard costs ¬19 and is valid for 72 hours. It also includes reductions on many attractions and performances in Berlin and Potsdam.

Taxis
Beige Mercedes Benz sedans make up most of Berlin’s taxi fleet. Outside the main centres, it is better for visitors to find a taxi rank rather than try to flag down a taxi. Taxis are also available by telephone from Taxi-Funk Berlin (tel: (030) 69022 or 443 322), Funk Taxi Berlin (tel: (030) 261 026; website: www.funktaxi-berlin.de), Würfelfunk (tel: (030) 210 101; website: www.wuerfelfunk.de) and Taxi Vorbestellung (tel: (030) 4228 2828; website: www.taxihaus.de). The initial charge for a taxi is ¬2.50, rising by ¬1.50 every kilometre (¬1 after the seventh kilometre). A journey from the Ku’damm to Unter den Linden costs approximately ¬10. It is standard for passengers to tip taxi drivers, usually 5–10% of the fare.

Limousines
Chauffeur and limousine hire is available from Autovermietung Minex (tel: (030) 857 7700 or 8577 7073; fax: (030) 8577 7070; website: www.minex.de), which charges from ¬42 per hour for a Mercedes S-Class sedan or ¬357 for an eight-hour day. Limousine hire is also available from MC Prestige Limousine Tours (tel: (030) 262 8259; fax: (030) 262 8269; website: www.mcprestigelimo.de), with prices from ¬51.13 per hour for a Mercedes S-Class, and ¬71.58 for a stretch limo, and United Limousines GmbH (tel: (030) 343 4600; fax: (030) 3434 6060; website: www.united-limousines.com), charging ¬203 for three hours in a Mercedes E-Class and ¬487 for three hours in a stretch limo.

Driving in the City
Weekday rush hours are from 0700 to 0900 and 1600 to 1900 (until 2300 in some of the popular nightlife districts). The one-way system can be difficult to negotiate but there are plenty of larger, two-way avenues in central Berlin that are easier to use. Parking can be problematic on Saturday, particularly in the shopping areas. Parking lots in the Ku’damm area charge ¬1.50–2 for the first hour and have day rates of ¬9–10.

Car Hire
All of the major car hire firms are represented in Berlin and all have multiple locations throughout the city. Some of the most central are Europcar, Karl-Liebknecht-Strasse 19–21 (tel: (030) 240 7900 or (01805) 800 000 (charged at 12 cents per minute) or (030) 417 8520; website: www.europcar.de), Hertz, Budapester Strasse 39 (tel: (030) 261 1053 or (01805) 333 535 (charged at 12 cents per minute) or (030) 4170 4674; website: www.hertz.de), Sixt, Nürnbergerstrasse 65 (tel: (030) 212 9880 or (01805) 262 525 (charged at 12 cents per minute); website: www.e-sixt.de), and Avis, Budapester Strasse 41 (tel: (030) 230 9370 or (01805) 557 755 (charged at 12 cents per minute) or (030) 4101 3148; website: www.avis.com).

Drivers usually must be over 21 years old and require a valid national driving licence. Rates for hire start at around ¬75 per day (including tax and insurance) and ¬275 per week. Third party insurance is included.

Bicycle Hire
Bicycles are plentiful in Berlin – the flat terrain and extensive network of bicycle paths make cycling in the city a pleasure. Cycling maps, information and assistance are available at Das Radlerzentrum, run by the cycling lobby group Allgemeine Deutscher Fahrrad-Club (ADFC), Brunnenstrasse 28 (tel: (030) 448 4724; website: www.adfc-berlin.de), Monday to Friday 1200–2000 and Saturday 1000–1600. There are a number of bicycle hire outlets, including City Bike, Uhlandstrasse 106A (tel: (030) 861 5237; fax: (030) 8639 4363; e-mail: info@citybikeservice.de; website: www.citybikeservice.de), and Berlin by bike-Fahrradstation (tel: (01805) 108 000 (charged at 12 cents per minute); website: www.fahrradstation.de), which has offices at Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41 (tel: (030) 2838 4848), Friedrichstrasse 141–142 (tel: (030) 2045 4500), Auguststrasse 29A (tel: (030) 2859 9661), and Bergmannstrasse 9 (tel: (030) 215 1566). Bicycle hire costs around ¬10 per day or ¬50 per week (insurance included.

Business

Business Profile
With the massive task of marrying a Capitalist and a Communist economic system, Germany has had a turbulent time since reunification in 1990. During the Cold War, West Berlin was a heavily subsidised island of capitalism, while East Berlin, under the Communist system, had very little private enterprise. In the intervening years, the city has had to deal with massive unemployment, as inefficient East German industries were shut down. Berlin also had to make a massive investment in modernising and integrating the infrastructure of the city’s two halves. Private and public investment is estimated to be ¬102 billion by 2003.

The city that has emerged from a forest of skyscrapers might look impressive but this facade hides the fact that Berlin is massively in debt – although austerity measures should help to improve the situation. Many new offices lie empty and the rate of unemployment rose from 15% in 1999 to 18.7% in 2003, well above the national average at 11.1%.

Many people in the Berlin business community presumed that the city would emerge as the gateway between East and West, thanks to numerous East Berliners speaking Russian and having a familiarity with the business and social conventions of the former Eastern Bloc. In reality, many international firms have cut out the middleman and saved money by locating directly in Prague and Budapest. However, Berlin’s trade with Russia and the Czech Republic increased at a higher rate than average in 2000. And, over the last year or so, there has been a new sense of optimism, as more and more of the colossal building projects become a part of the city’s life.

Berlin has regained the status of capital of Germany and the German economy is again growing in strength. Simultaneously the economic decision-making power is shifting from the Western centre in the Ku’damm area to the new centre around Potsdamer Platz, Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse.

Among the big names in the new Potsdamer Platz developments are DaimlerChrysler, Sony, Hertie, Berliner Volksbank and ABB, while major companies with offices in the city include Allianz (insurance), Bertelsmann (publishing), Deutsche Bank, DG Bank and KPMG (finance) and Sony- Europa (electronics). Key industries in the city include the electrical, chemical and pharmaceutical industries, food processing and heavy machinery, equipment manufacturing and, increasingly, tourism – Berlin is now Germany’s number one tourist destination and the Film Festival alone brings in approximately ¬30 million a year. A new solar energy centre has also opened in the Eastern area of the city. Overall, 36% of employees work in the service sector, 33% in manufacturing and industry, 13% in trade and transport and 18% in government.

In terms of convention venues, there is the Internationales Congress Centrum (ICC), Messedamm 22 (tel: (030) 303 3000; fax: (030) 3038 3030; website: www.messe-berlin.de or www.icc-berlin.com). The Industrie-und Handelskammer Berlin (Berlin Chamber of Commerce) is located at Fasanenstrasse 85 (tel: (030) 315 100; fax: (030) 3151 0166; website: www.berlin.ihk.de).

Business Etiquette
Germans are very businesslike while at work and this shows in their expectations for punctuality, formal manners and attention to detail. It is common to answer the telephone by stating one’s last name, rather than saying ‘hello’. People should be addressed by their titles (such as Herr Doktor) and last name, until they indicate otherwise. Many businesspeople speak English but might prefer to conduct business in German. Likewise, business cards (which are used extensively) and business letters in English are acceptable, although supporting documentation should be translated. It is best for visitors to err on the conservative side of dress, certainly in the first instance.

Standard business hours are typically Monday to Friday 0800/0900–1600/1700, although, contrary to what many visitors expect, these hours can be less, as Germans have some of the shortest working hours in Western Europe. Meetings are usually between 1100 and 1300 or 1500 and 1700, although late afternoon appointments (other than on Friday) are not unusual. Business lunches are common (the person making the offer is expected to pay) but breakfast meetings are rare. So called ‘after-work parties’ are becoming increasingly popular ways for workers to meet colleagues and friends for drinks.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Overview
Berlin can be a sightseeing nightmare – the vast sprawl that is the city has no definite centre and pockets of attractions are dotted all over. That said, the state museums are grouped in clusters – on the Museumsinsel, at the Kulturforum, in and around Schloss Charlottenberg and in the southwestern suburb of Dahlem. There are also a large number of attractions either at Potsdamer Platz or within walking distance of this, including the Kulturforum to the southwest. To the north lie the Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) and the Reichstag, sporting Lord Foster’s new glass dome. The Brandenburg Gate is situated on Berlin’s main east–west axis. To the west lies the Siegessäule (Victory Column), which provides a view over the surrounding Tiergarten and the Western city centre, to the southwest of the column.

West Berlin’s centre has less to offer and is better for shopping and nightlife than for sightseeing. Nevertheless visitors should take a look at the broken shard of a church, the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche, which serves as a brutal reminder of World War II. The nearby Zoo and Aquarium also provide a happy distraction.

The densest array of sights lies to the east of the Brandenburg Gate, on either side of Unter den Linden, lined with many 18th- and 19th-century buildings. At its end are the artistic and architectural treasures of the Museumsinsel, where the city’s main cathedral, the Berliner Dom, can be found. Further on is the Communist-era Fernsehturm (television tower), on Alexanderplatz, which marked the centre of East Berlin.

Due to ongoing restoration work, many of the city’s museums are prone to closures at present and some of the collections are being temporarily relocated.

Tourist Information
Berlin Tourismus Marketing GmbH
Tel: (0190) 016 316 (Info Hotline, Germany only) or (030) 250 025 (reservations) or (700) 8623 7546 (from outside Germany). Fax: (030) 2500 2424.
E-mail: information@btm.de
Website: www.berlin-tourist-information.de

Europa-Center, Budapester Strasse 45 (West Berlin)
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 0830-2030 and Sun 1000-1830, may open later in summer

Brandenburg Gate (South Wing), Pariser Platz (East Berlin)
Opening hours: Daily 0930-1800.

Other tourist information offices are located at Tegel airport, on the ground floor of KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, and at the Fernsehturm (TV tower) at Alexanderplatz. There is a Tourist Info Café, Panoramastrasse 1a, next to the TV tower, open daily 1000-1800. The city of Berlin provides online information (website: www.berlin.de), some of it in English.

Passes
Berlin Tourismus Marketing offers the WelcomeCard, which gives discounts of up to 50% on museums and attractions (including Schloss Sanssouci and Zoologischer Garten) as well as guided tours, boat trips and performances in both Berlin and Potsdam. The pass costs ¬21 and is valid for 72 hours for one adult and up to three children. Also included in the price is unlimited travel on all buses and trains in zones A, B and C. The card is available at tourist offices, transit ticket offices and some hotels.

There is also the SchauLust Museen Berlin three-day tourist ticket, which gives free admission to more than 50 museums, including the Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, the Pergamon Museum and Gemäldegalerie. The pass costs ¬10 (concessions available) and is available at the main tourist offices.

A two-day pass for all of the region’s Prussian palaces and gardens is available at Schloss Sanssouci for ¬15. A one-day pass for all the palaces except Sanssouci costs ¬12 and is available from any of the participating palaces.

Key Attractions

Potsdamer Platz and the New Centre
After lying desolate for decades, except for the platform that allowed Westerners to peer over the Wall into the East, Potsdamer Platz is again part of Berlin’s thriving centre – in the 1930s, it was the busiest square in Europe. In just a few years, the forest of cranes has given way to a new precinct full of shops, restaurants, bars and entertainment venues. The best place to see it all – as well as terrific views over the rest of Berlin – is from the Panorama-Point, at the top of the Kollhof building, reached by what is claimed to be the fastest lift in Europe.

One of the more interesting constructions is the Sony Centre, with its piazza covered by a futuristic sail-like roof. On the ground floor is the Filmmuseum Berlin, which recalls some of the city’s great achievements in the early days of cinema and devotes considerable space to Marlene Dietrich, who would have celebrated her 100th birthday on December 27 2001.

Potsdamer Platz
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Potsdamer Platz; bus 142, 148, 248 or 348.

Filmmuseum Berlin
Potsdamer Strasse 2
Tel: (030) 300 9030. Fax: (030) 3009 0313.
E-mail: info@filmmuseum-berlin.de
Website: www.filmmuseum-berlin.de
Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri–Sun 1000–1800; Thurs 1000–2000.
Admission: ¬6.

Panorama-Point
Potsdamer Platz
Tel: (030) 2529 4372 or 2554 2104, for guided tours.
Website: www.potsdamerplatz.de
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 1100–1930.
Admission: ¬3.50.

Reichstag
British architect Lord Foster has transformed the Reichstag, which was built at the end of the 19th century and has long since been emblematic of the German State. It was damaged in the fire of 1933, which marked Hitler’s consolidation of power, and has now been renovated for the Bundestag (People’s Assembly) of a reunited Germany. The new dome is meant to symbolise the transparency of the democratic government and visitors can pass between its layers to witness the decision-making chamber of the government. The Plenary is open for free hourly guided tours when parliament is not in session – parliament is in session Monday to Friday 0900–1600, weekends 1000–1600. The walk through the dome itself is stunning, culminating in sweeping views of a city in transition. The rooftop restaurant (tel: (030) 2262 9933) provides a way to beat the queues and is open until 2400.

Platz der Republik
Tel: (030) 2273 2152 or 2272 2152. Fax: (030) 2273 0027 or 2272 0027.
Website: www.bundestag.de
Transport: S-Bahn Unter den Linden; bus 100, 248, 257 or 348.
Opening hours: Daily 0800–2400 (last admission 2200).
Admission: Free.

Berlin Wall History
Much of the Wall or the ‘Anti-Fascist Protection Rampart’, as the GDR authorities liked to call it, has succumbed – first to enthusiastic revellers and souvenir hunters and then more significantly to developers; only a few sections remain. The East Side Gallery, along Mühlenstrasse (S-Bahn Ostbahnhof), emerged in the post-Wall years as a poignant symbol of new hope, as it was covered with inspiring artwork. Today, its future is in doubt and the faded state of the paintings is symbolic of how far Berlin has come since 1989. The Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer is a graffiti-free stretch of the Wall that has been preserved by the authorities. A visitor centre has information about the Wall years, while a chapel is dedicated to the 80 or so victims that died trying to cross it. Perhaps the best place to get a sense of what the divided city was like is the Mauermuseum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, located next to the site where the famous border-crossing stood. A number of permanent exhibitions document the history of the Wall and place it into context, as well as record the famous paintings on the Western side of the division.

Gedenkstätte
Bernauer Strasse 111
Tel: (030) 2246 41030.
Website: www.the-berlin-wall.de or www.berlinermauer.de
Transport: U-Bahn Bernauer Strasse; S-Bahn Nordbahnhof.
Open: Wed–Sun 1000–1700 (visitors centre).
Admission: Free.

Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Mauermuseum)
Friedrichstrasse 43–45
Tel: (030) 253 7250. Fax: (030) 251 2075.
E-mail: info@mauer-museum.com
Website: www.checkpointcharlie.org
Transport: U-Bahn Kochstrasse or Stadtmitte; bus 129.
Opening hours: Daily 0900–2200.
Admission: ¬7.50 (concessions available).

Unter den Linden and the Museumsinsel
One of Berlin’s most recognisable landmarks, the Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate), stands at the western end of Pariser Platz. Stretching eastwards from here is Unter den Linden, along which some of the city’s richest cultural treasures lie. These include the Deutsche Staatsoper (German State Opera), the Neue Wache (New Guardhouse), which is now a memorial to the victims of fascism and tyranny, and the Zeughaus (Arsenal), which houses the Deutsches Historisches Museum (German Historical Museum).

The Museumsinsel (Museum Island), at the eastern end of Unter den Linden, offers the Pergamonmuseum, containing a host of antiquities, including the enormous Pergamon altar, Bodemuseum (closed until 2004) and the massive, neo-Baroque Berliner Dom (Berlin Cathedral), built in 1893–1905 and recently renovated. Within the newly restored Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery) is the ‘Galerie der Romantik’, a large collection of German and Austrian paintings from the first half of the 19th century. These include 24 paintings by Caspar David Friedrich. The Altes Museum (Old Museum) is a striking neo-classical building, designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel, which opened in 1830. The main floor houses a collection of antiquities, while the upstairs galleries house changing exhibitions.

Altes Museum
Am Lustgarten
Tel: (030) 2090 5566 or 2090 5555 (recorded info). Fax: (030) 2090 5502.
Website: www.smpk.de/ant
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Friedrichstrasse or S-Bahn Hackescher Markt; bus 100, 157 or 348.
Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri–Sun 1000–1800, Thurs 1000–2200.
Admission: ¬6; ¬10 (three-day pass); concessions available; free on first Sun of each month.

Deutsches Historisches Museum
Unter den Linden 2
Tel: (030) 203 040. Fax: (030) 2030 4543.
Website: www.dhm.de
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Friedrichstrasse or S-Bahn Hackescher Markt; bus 100, 157 or 348.
Opening times: Fri–Tues 1000–1800, Thurs 1000–2200.
Admission: Free.

Pergamonmuseum
Am Kupfergraben
Tel: (030) 208 050.
E-mail: vam@smb.spk-berlin.de
Website: www.smpk.de
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Friedrichstrasse or S-Bahn Hackescher Markt; bus 100, 157, 200 or 348.
Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri–Sun 1000–1800, Thurs 1000–2200.
Admission: ¬6; ¬10 (for a three-day pass); concessions available.

Alte Nationalgalerie
Bodestrasse
Tel: (030) 2090 5555. Fax: (030) 2090 5502.
Website: www.smpk.de/ang
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Friedrichstrasse or S-Bahn Hackescher Markt; bus 100, 157 or 348.
Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri–Sun 1000–1800; Thurs 1000–2200.
Admission: ¬6 (day-pass including Pergamonmuseum); ¬10 (three-day pass); concessions available.

Judische Museum (Jewish Museum)
The striking design of this Daniel Liebeskind-designed memorial to Jewish life in Berlin is based on a shattered Star of David. Even before the installation of the permanent exhibits – recalling the life and history of German Jews through the centuries – visitors came to experience the evocative spaces within this incredible structure.

Lindenstrasse 9–14
Tel: (030) 2599 3300. Fax: (030) 2599 3409.
E-mail: info@jmberlin.de
Website: www.jmberlin.de
Transport: U-Bahn Hallesches Tor or Kochstrasse; bus 129, 240 or 341.
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 1000–2000; Mon 1000–2200; closed on Jewish holidays.
Admission: ¬5 (concessions available).

Schloss Charlottenburg and museums
The Charlottenburg Palace was built in 1790, as a summer residence for Sophie Charlotte, the wife of King Frederick 11. Visits to the Old Palace are by guided tour only. Prices and hours vary for the New Wing, the Orangerie, the mausoleum and other parts of the complex. The museums and galleries that are in and around the palace include the Egyptian Museum, with its famous bust of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti. The Berggruen Collection, opposite the palace, includes 64 artworks by Picasso, as well as a representative collection of his contemporaries.

Schloss Charlottenburg
Luisenplatz
Tel: (0331) 969 4202.
Website: www.spsg.de
Transport: U-Bahn Sophie-Charlotte-Platz or Richard-Wagner-Platz; bus 109, 110, 121, 126 or 145.
Opening hours: Tues–Fri 0900–1700, Sat and Sun 1000–1700, last tour at 1600 (Old Palace); Tues–Fri 1000–1800, Sat and Sun 1100–1800 (New Wing); grounds open daily 0600–2100 (summer); daily 0600–2000 (winter).
Admission: ¬8 (Old Palace); ¬5 (New Wing); concessions available

Sammlung Berggruen
Westlicher Stülerbau, Schlossstrasse 1
Tel: (030) 2090 5555 (recorded info). Fax: (030) 2090 5502.
Website: www.spmk.de
Transport: U-Bahn Sophie-Charlotte-Platz or Richard-Wagner-Platz; bus 109, 145, 210 or X21.
Opening hours: Tues–Fri 1000–1800; Sat and Sun 1100–1800.
Admission ¬6; ¬10 (valid three days); concessions available.

Kulturforum (Cultural Forum)
Located in the west of the city, the Kulturforum is a cultural centre, grouping together all the museums that have European art as their chief focus, including a Musikinstrumentenmuseum (Musical Instrument Museum) and a new hall for chamber music. The opening of the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery) in 1998 brought a stunning collection of 13th- to 18th-century paintings to the site. It joined the Kunstgewerbemuseum (Arts and Crafts Museum) and the Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery). The latter, built to the designs of Mies van der Rohe, contains German Expressionist and Realist art, as well as other works of the 20th century. There is also a sculpture garden.

Philharmonie und Kammermusiksaal
Herbert-von-Karajan-Strasse 1
Tel: (030) 254 880 or 2548 8156 or 2548 8999 (ticket hotline). Fax: (030) 261 4887.
Website: www.berlin-philharmonic.com
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Potsdamer Platz or U-Bahn Mendelssohn-Batholdy-Park; bus 129, 148, 200, 248, 341 or 348.
Opening hours: Shows generally Fri–Sun 1600 and 2000 (depending on programme); guided tours daily 1300.
Admission: From ¬7 (shows); ¬36 (guided tour in English).

Musikinstrumentenmuseum
Tiergartenstrasse 1
Tel: (030) 2548 1178.
E-mail: sim@sim.spk-berlin.de
Website: www.sim.spk-berlin.de
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Potsdamer Platz or U-Bahn Mendelssohn-Batholdy-Park; bus 129, 142, 148, 200, 248, 341 or 348.
Opening hourse: Tues–Fri 0900–1700, Sat and Sun 1000–1700.
Admission: ¬3; free on first Sun of the month.

Gemäldegalerie
Kulturforum, Matthäikirchplatz 8
Tel: (030) 266 2010 or 2090 5555 (information). Fax: (030) 266 2103.
E-mail: gg@smb.spk-berlin.de
Website: www.smpk.de/gg
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Potsdamer Platz or U-Bahn Mendelssohn-Batholdy-Park; bus 129, 142, 148, 248, 341 or 348.
Opening hours: Tues–Sun 1000–1800, Thurs 1000–2200.
Admission: ¬6 (concessions available).

Kunstgewerbemuseum
Kulturforum, Matthäikirchplatz 8
Tel: (030) 266 2002 or 2090 5555 (information). Fax: (030) 266 2959.
E-mail: kk@smb.spk-berlin.de
Website: www.smpk.de/kgm
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Potsdamer Platz or U-Bahn Mendelssohn-Batholdy-Park; bus 129, 142, 200, 248, 341 or 348.
Opening hours: Tues–Fri 1000–1800, Sat and Sun 1100–1800.
Admission: ¬3 (concessions available).

Neue Nationalgalerie
Kulturforum, Potsdamer Strasse 50
Tel: (030) 2090 5566 or 2090 5555 (recorded info). Fax: (030) 2090 5502.
Website: www.smpk.de/nng
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Potsdamer Platz or U-Bahn Mendelssohn-Batholdy-Park; bus 129, 148, 200, 248, 341 or 348.
Opening hours: Tues, Wed and Fri 1000–1800, Thurs 1000–2200, Sat and Sun 1100–1800.
Admission: ¬6; special exhibitions cost extra; concessions available.

Centrum Judaicum – Neue Synagogue (Jewish Centre – New Synagogue)
The Neue Synagogue was completed in 1866. Its location in the heart of the Scheunenviertel (Berlin’s Jewish district) suffered serious bomb damage in 1943. Thanks to renovation in the mid-1990s, its Moorish dome can now be seen in its original glory. The synagogue houses a Jewish Centre, with an exhibition. The Alter Jüdischer Friedhof (Old Jewish Cemetery) is a short walk away, at Schönhauser Allee 23–25 (open Monday to Thursday 0800–1600 and Friday 0800–1300).

Oranienburger Strasse 28–30
Tel: (030) 880 28451 or 8802 8316. Fax: (030) 282 1176.
E-mail: office@cjudaicum.de
Website: www.cjudaicum.de
Transport: S-Bahn Hackescher Markt or Oranienburger Strasse; U-Bahn Oranienburger Tor; tram 1 or 13.
Opening hours: Sun–Thurs 1000–1800, Fri 1000–1400 (1 Sep–30 Apr); Mon and Sun 1000–2000, Tues–Thurs 1000–1800, Fri 1000–1700 (1 May–31 Aug); closed on Jewish holidays; guided tours Sun 1400 and 1600, Wed 1600.
Admission: ¬3 (concessions available).

Further Distractions

Tiergarten
There are few cities in the world where one can lie naked in the middle of town at noon and not be arrested. Besides having delightful tree-shaded walks, canals and flower gardens, the Tiergarten also has a couple of open fields on either side of Hofjägerallee, where the locals sunbathe au naturel. While the sunbathers cannot be seen from the Siegessäule – the Victory Column in the centre of the park – it does provide a good view of the other major sights around Berlin. The angel at the top of the 69m (226ft) column was the perching place for the angels in Wim Wenders’ film Wings of Desire (1987).

Straße des 17. Juni
Transport: Bus 100, 187, 200 or 341; S-Bahn Tiergarten.
Opening hours: Daily 24 hours.
Admission: Free

Siegessäule
Grosser Stern
Tel: (030) 391 2961.
Opening hours: Mon–Thurs 0830–1830, Fri–Sun 0930–1930 (mid May–mid Oct); Mon–Sun 0830–1700 (mid Oct–mid May).
Admission: ¬1.20 (concessions available).

Fernsehturm (TV Tower)
The best views in East Berlin are from the Fernsehturm at Alexanderplatz. Looking vaguely like the Death Star on a concrete spit, the television tower is Berlin’s tallest structure at 368m (1207ft) and makes for a good reference point, as well as blighting many views of the city skyline. The Communist designers inadvertently made it so that sunlight reflecting on its facets forms a Christian cross. In a sign of changing times, a glare of advertising neon surrounds the base of the tower. Visitors can take an elevator up 203m (666ft) to the viewing platform or the revolving café, for a good look over the city.

Panoramastrasse 1A, Alexanderplatz
Tel: (030) 242 3333. Fax: (030) 242 5922.
E-mail: info@berlinerfernsehturm.de
Website: www.berlinerfernsehturm.de
Transport: U-Bahn/S-Bahn Alexanderplatz; bus 100, 157, 200 or 348; tram 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6.
Opening hours: Daily 0900–0100 (Mar–Oct); daily 1000–0000 (Nov–Feb).
Admission: ¬6.50 (concessions available).

Spandauer Zitadelle (Spandau Citadel)
This 16th-century fortress is the oldest non-religious building in the city. Its location overlooking the Havel River and the charming old town of Spandau make a trip to this district a lovely excursion within the city. Guided tours of the citadel are available through advance booking.

Am Juliusturm
Tel: (030) 3549 44200 or 334 6270 (to book tour). Fax: (030) 3549 44205.
Website: www.zitadelle-spandau.net
Transport: U-Bahn Zitadelle; bus 133.
Opening hours: Tues–Fri 0900–1700, Sat and Sun 1000–1700; guided tour Sat and Sun 1300, 1415 and 1530.
Admission: ¬2.50 (concessions available).

Tours of the City

Walking Tours
Daily walking tours are offered by Insider Tour (tel/fax: (030) 692 3149; website: www.insidertour.com). Walking tours start from the McDonalds opposite Bahnhof Zoo, at 1000 and 1430 (April to October) and at 1000 only (November to March). These take between three and four hours to complete and cost ¬12 (concessions available). All the major sites, such as the Victory Column, Brandenburg Gate, Potsdamer Platz and the Reichstag, are covered. Insider Tour also offers cycling tours with a similar itinerary from May to September for ¬20.

Bus Tours
A cheap and simple way for visitors to see the sights in Berlin is to first pick up a leaflet at the BVG information centre at Bahnhof Zoo and then board bus 100 (see Getting Around). The leaflet provides information on all the sights along the route, as the bus journeys from the centre of West Berlin to the East, travelling through the Tiergarten and passing the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate. A similar tour is possible on bus 200, which passes through Potsdamer Platz rather than the Tiergarten.

Guided bus tours are available from a number of companies, which are significantly more expensive at approximately ¬18–26 for a hop-on, hop-off tour – the summertime (April to October) option of including a one-hour boat tour adds around ¬7.50 to the price. There are a number of pick-up points along the Ku’damm, between the Europa-Center and Uhlandstrasse. In City West, the best departure point is in front of the large department store, Kaufhas des Westens (KaDeWe), while in the City East, buses stop at the Brandenburg Gate (in front of the Café Meyerbeer) and at Alexanderplatz (in front of the Hotel Park Inn). Operators include Berolina (tel: (030) 8856 8030; fax: (030) 882 4128; e-mail: info@berolina-berlin.com; website: www.berolina-berlin.com), Severin + Kühn (tel: (030) 880 4190; fax: (030) 882 5618; e-mail: info@severin-kuehn-berlin.de; website: www.severin-kuehn-berlin.de) and Tempelhofer Reisen (tel: (030) 752 4056; fax: (030) 751 7035; e-mail: info@tempelhofer.de; website: www.tempelhofer.de).

Other Tours
Walking tours of Berlin’s architecture, neighbourhoods and a variety of cultural institutions off the regular tourist trail are available from art:berlin, Oranienburger Strasse 32 (tel: (030) 2809 6390; fax: (030) 2809 6391). A two-hour ‘Jewish Life’ tour costs ¬8, departing from Kackescher Markt on Sunday at 1300. Kultur Büro Berlin (tel: (030) 444 0936; fax: (030) 444 0939) offers a similar variety of tours, including ones that focus on particular artists such as Max Liebermann or Marlene Dietrich. Tours for both companies are in German but are available in English for group bookings.

Excursions

In addition to the sources mentioned below, information on destinations in Brandenburg, which completely surrounds Berlin, is available from the state tourist office, Reiseland Brandenburg (tel: (0331) 200 4747; fax: (0331) 298 7328; website: www.reiseland-brandenburg.de).

For a Half Day

Potsdam: One of the best excursions from Berlin is a visit to Potsdam, with its pleasant main shopping street and Dutch Quarter, as well as the nearby palaces and gardens of Sanssouci, Schloss Cecilienhof and the Babelsberg Film Studios. Potsdam is located approximately 20km (12 miles) from Berlin’s centre and is reachable by S-Bahn S7 or the regional train RE1, both leaving from Bahnhof Zoo. The Potsdam Tourismus GmbH, Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse 5 (tel: (0331) 275 580; fax: (0331) 275 5899; e-mail: information@potsdam.de; website: www.potsdam.de), can provide further information.

Haus der Wannsee Konferenz: The Wannsee Conference House (tel: (030) 805 0010; e-mail:info@ghwk.de; website: www.ghwk.de) is a place that some Berliners would rather the tourists never see. Nestling in a plush lakeside suburb in the ‘Berlin Riviera’, this Wannsee villa looks innocuous enough. However, those who walk down the pebble-strewn driveway enter the building where leading Nazis gathered with German industrialists to mechanically plan the deaths of millions of Jews. The free exhibition is open daily 1000–1800 and best reached by S-Bahn to Bahnhof Wannsee, then bus 114.

For a Whole Day

Spreewald: To the southeast of Berlin lies the nature reserve of the Spreewald (Spree Forest). Some 48,000 hectares (120,000 acres) of forested land interspersed with a labyrinth of 1000km (621 miles) of waterways marks the headwaters of the Spree River, which flows through Berlin on the way to the sea. This area offers a great opportunity for visitors to get out into nature, either for walks or bicycle rides in the woods or for watersports or boat tours (in punts). The best place for one to start a tour is from the large harbour in Lübbenau or one of the smaller ones in Lübben or Burg. Spreewald is located 110km (68 miles) on the A13 from Berlin. Regional trains depart hourly from Königs Wusterhausen in southeast Berlin (journey time – 40 minutes) and approximately every two hours from Bahnhof Zoo (journey time – 1 hour 30 minutes) and Ostbahnhof (journey time – 1 hour). Tourismusverband Spreewald, Lindenstrasse 1, Raddusch (tel: (035433) 72299; fax: (035433) 72228; e-mail: tourismus@spreewald.de; website: www.spreewald.de), can provide further information.

Sport

The Olympiastadion (Olympic Stadium), Bismarckstrasse, was built for the 1936 Olympic Games and is now the site for sports events, concerts and conferences. Football is extremely popular and the Hertha BSC football team (tel: (01805) 437 842 (charged at 12 cents per minute); website: www.herthabsc.de) plays at the Olympic Stadium, competing valiantly against other top German sides in the Bundesliga (First Division). German football was given a massive boost by the announcement that the country will stage the 2006 World Cup, with games scheduled for the capital, although suspicions of alleged bribery surrounded the decision to choose Germany over hot favourite South Africa.

Berlin is home to the German Women’s Open tennis tournament, which takes place on the clay courts of the LTTC ‘Rot-Weiss’, Gottfried-von-Cramm-Weg 47–55, Berlin-Grunewald (tel: (030) 895 7550; fax: (030) 8957 5550; e-mail: info@rot-weiss-berlin.de; website: http://rot-weiss.red2pro.net), each May. In men’s basketball, Alba Berlin (website: www.albaberlin.de) is strong in the German league and compete in Europe. Games can be seen at the Max-Schmeling-Halle, Am Falkplatz, Prenzlauer Berg (tel: (030) 443 045; fax: (030) 4430 4709; e-mail: info@velomax.de; website: www.max-schmeling-halle.de).

Fullhouse Service (tel: (030) 3087 85685) sells tickets to basketball matches as well as major annual sporting events. Showtime (tel: (0800) 8822 8822; website: www.showtime-berlin.de) also sells tickets to sporting events, with an outlet in the KaDeWe department store.

Fitness centres: Elixia – Mitte, Behrenstrasse 48, on the corner of Friedrichstrasse (tel: (030) 2063 5300; fax: (030) 2063 5310; website: www.elixia.com), is a centraly locatedl gym with handy opening hours (Monday to Friday 0600–2300, Saturday and Sunday 1000–2200). Options include free weights, circuit training, aerobics and other classes, a sauna and a steamroom. A day pass costs ¬25. The Ostkreuz branch, at Hirschberger Strasse 3, has a 25m (82ft) pool.

Golf: There are 16 golf courses in the Berlin-Brandenburg area and information on these is available in a guide published by the Association of Golf Timers, available free from Golfverband Berlin-Brandenburg, Forststrasse 34 (tel: (030) 823 6609; fax: (030) 824 4098; website: www.gvbb.de). Public courses charge approximately ¬18 per round, while the green fees at the various private clubs range from ¬25 to ¬50. A public course, Golf-Zentrum Berlin-Mitte, Chausseestrasse 94–98 (tel: (030) 2804 7070; website: www.golfzentrum.berlin.de), is a central spot with equipment and training available, where golfers can practice from 0700 until 2200.

Swimming: There is no shortage of places to swim in the city. During summer, locals head to the beaches on Wannsee and Tegeler See, in West Berlin, or to the larger Grosser Müggelsee, in the East. Public swimming pools include the indoor pool at Bad am Spreewaldplatz, Wiener Strasse 59, in Kreuzberg (tel: (030) 612 7057; website: www.berlinerbaederbetriebe.de), and an outdoor pool next to U-Bahn Prinzenstrasse station. The Sport- und Erholungszentrum (SEZ), Landsberger Allee 77, in Friedrichshain (tel: (030) 4218 2320), is one of Berlin’s largest sport centres and has a swimming pool.

Tennis: There are a number of tennis courts in the city, including TSF Freizeitcenter Marienfelde, Richard-Tauber-Damm 36 (tel: (030) 742 1091), and TSF Freizeitcenter Spandau, Galenstrasse 33–35 (tel: (030) 333 4083), charging ¬12–19 in summer and ¬16–24 in winter. TSB City Sports, Brandenburgische Strasse 53 (tel: (030) 873 9097), has rates starting from ¬8.50 and rising to ¬17.00, while TCW Tenniscenter, Roelckestrasse 106 (tel: (030) 927 4594), charges play at ¬14–26. Rates vary depending on the time of day, with the highest prices falling between 1600 and 2200.

Shopping

For years, the Kurfürstendamm or Ku’damm for short (website: www.kurfuerstendamm.de or www.berlin-citywest.com) has been the place to shop in Berlin. This elegant boulevard of shops and department stores has designer boutiques and shopping passages tucked down its side streets, particularly around the U-Bahn Uhlandstrasse station. The Europa-Center is also unmistakable, as it has a large revolving Mercedes Benz symbol on its roof. However, the most famous address is Kaufhaus des Westens or KaDeWe, Tauenzienstrasse 21–24 (website: www.kadewe.de), the largest department store in Europe – its food hall is enormous.

However, the West’s pre-eminence for Berlin shoppers is facing challenges from the revitalised areas of East Berlin. Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse (website: www.friedrichstrasse.de) have both blossomed since reunification, with boutiques, department stores such as Quartier 206 and the Galeries Lafayette shopping centre. Even this is changing with the completion of Potsdamer Platz – already the Arkaden shopping mall is luring away shoppers from other, more established areas. Also in the East are the boutiques in the Hackesche Höfe and the many galleries in the Scheunenviertel, just to the north. For innovative clothing, Heckmannhöfe, Oranienburger Strasse 32, is the place for shoppers to head, with the likes of Hut Up, with its bold woollens, Nix, with its urban chic and Sterling Gold, with its array of weird and wonderful second-hand cocktail and evening dresses. Other areas worth exploring are around Rosenhote, Alte Schonhaustrasse and Neue Schonhaustrasse.

For markets, there is the traditional fruit and vegetable market at Winterfeldtplatz, open Wednesday 0800–1300 and Saturday 0800–1530. More interesting objects can be found at the Trödelmarkt (Flea Market) and Arts and Crafts Market, along Strasse des 17 Juni, open Saturday and Sunday 1000–1700.

Shops are generally open Monday to Friday 0900/1000–2000 and Saturday 0900/1000–1600. Smaller shops might close a little earlier. There is a great online resource (website: www.kauflust.de) in the form of a guide to 250 shops with a clickable map. Visitors from outside the EU can reclaim a portion of the 16% VAT (up to 10%) on goods worth over ¬30. Shops displaying the ‘TAX-FREE’ sign issue a receipt that, when stamped by customs, can be redeemed at a tax-free reimbursement office.

Culture

In the decade or so since the fall of the Wall, Berlin has emerged as one of Europe’s most culturally vibrant cities, infused with a unique blend of Western and Eastern European cultures. There are world-class theatre and opera performances and a comprehensive array of museums and galleries to choose from. Beyond this, there are all the expressions of the counter culture for which Berlin is famous. Although remnants remain in Kreuzberg, the most avant-garde artists have moved to Mitte and increasingly to Prenzlauer Berg.

The tourist information office (see Sightseeing) publishes an online event calendar (website: www.berlin-tourist-information.com) as well as the Berlin Events leaflet. Tickets to cultural events are available for purchase through Berlin Tourismus Marketing (tel: (030) 250 025, for reservations or (0190) 016 316, for the information hotline or (01805) 754 040 (from outside Germany, charged at 12 cents per minute)), online (website www.berlin.de/tickets) or directly through most venues.

Music: The Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra is renowned worldwide. Its performance space, the Philharmonie, Herbert-von-Karajan-Strasse 1 (tel: (030) 254 880 or 2548 8132, for information or 2548 8126 or 2548 8194, ticket office; fax: (030) 261 4887, for information or 2548 8323, for bookings; e-mail: kartenbuero@berlin-philharmonic.com; website: www.berlin-philharmonic.com), matches their reputation. Within the venue, the Kammermusiksaal der Philharmonie hosts chamber players, soloists and small orchestras.

Berlin’s most elegant venue for classical music is the Konzerthaus Berlin, Gendarmenmarkt 2 (tel: (030) 2030 92101; fax: (030) 2030 92209; website: www.konzerthaus.de). The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester is based here.

The premier venue for opera, ballet and concerts was built in 1741–43, as the Court Opera House. Today, the Staatsoper Unter den Linden, Unter den Linden 7 (tel: (030) 2035 4555 or 2035 4438, for information; fax: (030) 2035 4483; website: www.staatsoper-berlin.de), is under the artistic and musical direction of Daniel Barenboim. The Deutsche Oper Berlin, situated in the west of the city, at Bismarckstrasse 35 (tel: (030) 343 8401 or 341 0249; fax: (030) 3438 4232; website: www.deutscheoperberlin.de), stages classical and modern opera, as well as ballet, operettas and concerts.

Performances at the Komische Oper Berlin, Behrenstrasse 55–57 (tel: (030) 202 600; fax: (030) 2026 0405; e-mail: info@komische-oper-berlin.de; website: www.komische-oper-berlin.de), which opened in 1947, include music, dance and concerts.

Theatre: The Deutsches Theater und Kammerspiele, Schumannstrasse 13A (tel: (030) 2844 1225 or 250 025, for tickets; fax: (030) 282 4117; website: www.deutschestheater.de), mounts contemporary productions as well as 19th- and 20th-century plays. The neo-Baroque Berliner Ensemble, Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1 (tel: (030) 2840 8155; fax: (030) 2840 8115; website: www.berliner-ensemble.de), was built before the turn of the century, as the Neues Theater. It was taken over by Bertolt Brecht and Helene Weigel and its resident company continues to show performances from Brecht’s works, as well as classical and modern pieces. For non-conformist and unconventional theatre and dance, the Volksbühne am Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, Linienstrasse 227 (tel: (030) 247 6772; fax: (030) 2406 5642; website: www.volksbuehne-berlin.de), is one of the top addresses.

Dance: The Hebbel-Theater, Stresemannstrasse 29 (tel: (030) 2590 0427; fax: (030) 2590 0449; website: www.hebbel-theater.de), is one of the centres for contemporary dance and opera in Europe. It also hosts the TanzWinter and Tanz im August dance festivals. Classical ballet is staged at the Deutsche Oper Berlin, Bismarckstrasse 35 (tel: (030) 343 8401; fax: (030) 343 8455; website: www.deutscheoperberlin.de), which has an excellent resident ballet company, Ballet der Deutsche Oper Berlin.

Film: In the early 20th century, Berlin was the cradle of German cinema, with seminal films such as Metropolis (1927) and other works of German expressionism. The 1930 film, Der Blaue Engel (The Blue Angel), starring Marlene Dietrich (website: www.marlene.com), was based on Heinrich Mann’s novel, Professor Unrath (1905). The movie catapulted Dietrich her to stardom, as the sexy cabaret singer, Lola Lola. Berlin earned itself a reputation for decadence in the 1920s and 1930s, which were recaptured to good effect in the 1972 film, Cabaret. More recent works have included Wim Wenders’ 1987 film, Der Himmel über Berlin (Wings of Desire), in which two angels watch over the divided city from the Siegessäule.

Berlin has over a hundred cinemas and new releases are often screened in the English original (OV or OF) or the original language with German subtitles (OmU). The best place for blockbuster fans to catch the latest big releases, often in the original version, are the 19-screen CinemaxX Berlin Potsdamer Platz, Potsdamer Platz (tel: (030) 4431 6316 or (0180) 5246 36299; website: www.cinemaxx.de), and the nearby eight-screen CineStar im Sony Center, Potsdamer Strasse 4 (tel: (030) 2606 6260; website: www.cinestar.de). Of the mainstream cinemas in the city’s western half, Kant-Kino, Kantstrasse 54 (tel: (030) 312 5047 or 319 9866), sometimes has Hollywood fare in English with German subtitles. Of the numerous repertory, international and arthouse screens, Arsenal, Potsdamer Strasse 2 (tel: (030) 2695 5100; website: www.fdk-berlin.de), is a central spot with a lot of English screenings.

The Berlin Film Festival (website: www.berlinale.de) is one of the most important on the circuit and the Berlin Bear prize is almost as highly valued as the legendary Palme d’Or. The film festival takes place in February and celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2000.

Weekly film listings are printed on posters, which are displayed throughout the city. The magazines, Tip (website: www.tip-berlin.de) and Zitty (website: www.zitty.de), also have listings. During summer, there are popular outdoor film screenings in the Volkspark Hasenheide and at the Waldbühne, near the Olympic Stadium.

Cultural events: Berlin offers a number of multidisciplinary venues, which offer a range of cultural events throughout the year. Haus der Kulturen der Welt, John-Foster-Dulles Allee 10, in the Tiergarten (tel: (030) 3978 7175; fax: (030) 394 8679; website: www.hkw.de), hosts concerts, theatre, films, readings and events such as the International Festival of Media Art in February, with a remit to spotlight non-European cultures. Tacheles, Oranienburger Strasse 54–56 (tel: (030) 282 6185; fax: (030) 282 3130; e-mail: office@tacheles.de; website: www.tacheles.de), is an avant-garde, somewhat anarchic, cultural centre in the bombed out shell of a former department store. One of Berlin’s more poignant venues is the Tränenpalast (Palace of Tears), Reichstagufer 17 (tel: (030) 206 1000; website: www.traenenpalast.de), where West Berliners visiting East Berlin had to pass through. Today, it hosts theatre, films and concerts.

Summer undoubtedly sees most of the cultural action in Berlin, with the largest event of its kind, the massive July Love Parade taking over the Strasse des 17 Juni. A multitude of techno ravers gathers to enjoy the vibe, sunshine and the booming mobile sound systems. Other al-fresco events that characterise the Berlin summertime are the Karneval der Kulturen, a carnival of culture culminating in a colourful parade, and the Christopher Street Day, when gay and lesbian revellers march through the streets to proclaim their pride. Both take place in June.

Literary Notes
Der Stechlin (1898), Theodor Fontane’s late 19th-century novel, has the Stechlinsee in the dark Menzer Forest to the southeast of Berlin as its setting. Berlin Alexanderplatz (1929) is Alfred Döblin’s epic tale of the city. Also from the inter-war period is Christopher Isherwood’s The Berlin Stories, comprising the novels Mr Norris Changes Trains (1935) and Goodbye to Berlin (1939). They depict Berlin in the pre-Hitler years of the decadent Weimar Republic. Bertolt Brecht moved to Berlin in 1924 and stayed there until 1933, when he fled after the burning of the Reichstag. He directed and wrote many of his early plays here, most successfully Die Dreigroschenoper (The Threepenny Opera), which opened in 1928. Berlin’s post-war appearances in English writing have tended to be of the spy novel genre – fitting, as the city was the front line of the Cold War. Robert Harris’ Fatherland (1993) is a disturbing speculative fiction of Berlin based on the premise that the Nazis had not lost the war. Peter Schneider’s The Wall Jumper (1984) is a mixed genre meditation on the Berlin Wall.

Nightlife

Berlin is quite simply one of Europe’s most effervescent party cities. The old divides are still there when it comes to nightlife and the Western centre, somewhat ironically, lags behind the real action in the resurgent East. Berlin today is a byword for alternative culture and within the city pretty much anything goes. Punk and various forms of anarchy are struggling to survive among the style bars and yuppie haunts in Kreuzberg but the avant-garde cultural scene and accompanying drinking culture has moved on to Mitte, Prenzlauer Berg and increasingly to Friedrichshain. Likewise, the city’s gay scene is divided between staid Schöneberg, Kreuzberg and edgier Prenzlauer Berg.

For a first-time visitor, Mitte is probably the better bet, starting around the Hackesche Höfe and working up Oranienburger Strasse to the numerous bars that first greeted the Western hordes after the Wall fell. Tacheles, at the end of the street, is worth a visit for the spirit of culture and anarchy it once implied. For the real experience of Berlin, however, it has to be Prenzlauer Berg (Prenzl’berg for short). Some of the more established places are reasonably easy to find but the real fun starts with the wild bars and impromptu clubs that seem to spring up from nowhere one week and disappearing forever the next.

Entry to bars is officially restricted to those 18 years and older. There is often a cover charge of around ¬2.50–10 for discos and nightclubs but given the city’s relaxed attitude to style, most do not have dress codes and there are no fixed closing times. The average price of a drink while out and about in Berlin is ¬5–6.

Listings can be found in Zitty (website: www.zitty.de), Tip (website: www.tip-berlin.de) and Prinz (website: www.prinz.de) magazines. There are also club listings in the free magazines, Flyer (website: www.flyer.de/berlin) and 030 (website: www.berlin030.de).

Bars: For those looking to spend their money in a trendy atmosphere, the Bar am Lützowplatz, Lützowplatz 7 (website: www.baramLuetzowplatz.com), between the Tiergarten and U-Bahn Nollendorfplatz, offers high-priced cocktails. On the other side of Nollendorfplatz is Hafen, Motzstrasse 19, a popular gay bar. Other established bars are Wirtschaftwunder, Yorckstrasse 81, with 1950s decor, and the small, crowded Zoulou Bar, Hauptstrasse 4, which always has an interesting mix of people.

Bars line the scruffy streets of Oranienstrasse and Wiener Strasse in Kreuzberg, many doubling up as cafés during the day. Café Bar Morena, Wiener Strasse 60, is an institution. The nearby Wiener Blut, Weiner Strasse 13, is a good local, while Madonna, Weiner Strasse 22, is a bit rougher.

In East Berlin, there are too many things happening to list them all here. Good places to start on Oranienburger Strasse (the geile Meile) are the funky Bar Lounge 808, Oranienburger Strasse 42–43, Reingold, Novalisstrasse 11, for cocktails and jazz, or Mitte Bar, Oranienburger Strasse 46, which is popular as much with the arty local set as it is with students. There is also the well-established Obst und Gemuse, Oranienburger Strasse 48/49. In trendy Prenzlauer Berg, the most buzzing bars are the hip-hop temple, H20, Kastanienalle 16, and Prater, Kastienalle 7–9, with its beer garden, theatre and bar. You can also try Icon, Cantianstrasse 15.

The most unusual bars in the city are the unsicht-Bar, Gormannstrasse, and the Nocti Vagus, Saarbruecker Strasse 36–38, both of which serve food and drink in complete darkness. During 2003, both venues will stage events such as music evenings, plays and scent experiences.

Cabaret: The legacy of 1930s Berlin and Marlene Dietrich lives on. Over-the-top commercial cabaret is best seen at the Friedrichstadtpalast, Friedrichstrasse 107 (website: www.friedrichstadtpalast.de), with musical revues that combine glittering costumes with elements of dance and theatre into the floorshows at one of Europe’s largest revue theatres. Wintergarten – Das Varieté, Potsdamer Strasse 96 (website: www.wintergarten-variete.de), offers dinner and variety shows. More off beat shows can be found at independent venues in the area to the north of the Hackesche Höfe and in Prenzlauer Berg.

Casinos: Spielbank Berlin is part of the new Potsdamer Platz development and is located opposite the Grand Hyatt hotel, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 (website: www.spielbank-berlin.de). There is no specific dress code, although a passport is required, along with the ¬5.11 entry fee. The casino is open daily 1130–0300 to those aged 18 years and over; guests must bring identification, such as a passport. Casino Berlin, situated on the 37th floor of the Forum Hotel, Alexanderplatz, is open daily 1500–0300. The entrance fee is ¬5 and a jacket and tie are required. Players must be over 18 years and a passport is required for entry.

Clubs: There are a number of tourist-orientated discos in the Ku’damm area but a better bet in West Berlin is 90 Grad, Dennewitzstrasse 37, with a young crowd dancing to funky beats and house on the gay nights (Thursday and Saturday). SO36, Oranienstrasse 190, in Kreuzberg, has different moods and music styles, depending on the night. It also hosts concerts. Then there is the singles-orientated Balhaus Berlin, Chausseestrasse 102, where you can invite people to dance via a telephone on your table.

There is an eclectic array of clubs in East Berlin. In Mitte, one of the current hip places to see and be seen is the Sage-Club, Köpenicker Strasse 78, with its painfully trendy atmosphere and plenty of up-front house music. In Prenzlauer Berg, Knaack Club, Greifswalder Strasse 224, is a multilevel club with a wide variety of sounds and concerts early in the week, whileHavanna, Haupstrasse 30, offers salsa, merengue and funk. The halcyon days of out-and-out techno (the soundtrack for the fall of the Wall in 1989) live on in Casino, Mühlenstrasse, and in Matrix, Warschauer Platz 18.

Comedy: The Quatsch Comedy Club can be found on Friedrichstrasse 107 (website: www.quatschcomedyclub.de). Acts are stand up and sometimes include double acts.

Live music: In addition to the clubs that double up as live music venues mentioned above, Berlin has a variety of spots in which to witness live bands. The jazz and blues scene is particularly happening and popular spots include A Trane Jazzclub, Bleibtreustrasse 1, and B-Flat, Rosenthaler Strasse 13, as well as some nights at Flöz, Nassauische Strasse 37, and Quasimodo, Kantstrasse 12A. Major rock concerts take place at Columbiahalle, Columbiadamm 13–21 (website: www.columbiahalle.de), and occasionally at large sporting venues like the Velodrom, Paul-Heyse-Strasse 26, Prenzlauer Berg, and Max-Schmeling-Halle, Am Falkplatz, Prenzlauer Berg. Open-air concerts are held at the Waldbühne, Am Glockenturm, near the Olympic Stadium.

City Statistics

Location: Berlin State, northeastern Germany.
Country dialling code: 49.
Population: 3,331,000 (city).
Ethnic mix: 87% German, 6% other European, 4% Turkish nationals, 3% other.
Religion: 54% undeclared, 26.5% Protestant, 10% Roman Catholic, 6% Islamic, 3.5% other.
Time zone: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).
Electricity: 220 volts AC, 50Hz; round two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temp: -0.5°C (31°F).
Average July temp: 18°C (72°F).
Annual rainfall: 580mm (23 inches).

Special Events

International Festival of Media Art, early Feb, Haus der Kulturen der Welt
Lange Nacht der Museen (Long Night of the Museum), over 100 city museums are open all night long, late Jan/early Feb, various venues
Berlinale International Film Festival (website: www.berlinale.de), early Feb, various venues
Annual Berlin Theatre Event, early–mid May, various venues
Women’s Tennis Open, early May, LTTC ‘Rot-Weiss’
Berlin-biennale for Contemporary Art, biannual exhibition, with the next event taking place in 2003, mid May–mid Jul, Martin-Gropius-Bau
Karneval der Kulturen (Carnival of Cultures), parade and festival, late May/early Jun, Werkstatt der Kulturen, Kreuzberg
German Choir Festival, Jun, various locations
Christopher Street Day, lesbian and gay pride march, late Jun, various venues
Berlin Cycling 6 days race, late Jan 2004, Velodrom
Classic Open Air, early–mid Jul, Gendarmenarkt
Berlin Love Parade, mid Jul, Strasse des 17 Juni (Tiergarten)
Lange Nacht der Museen (Long Night of the Museums), over 100 museums open late with special events, late Aug
Berlin Marathon, late Sep, throughout the city
Tag der Deutschen Einheit (Day of German Unity), 3 Oct, throughout the city
JazzFest Berlin, early Nov, various venues
Jüdische Kulturtage (Jewish Cultural Days), Nov, various venues
Christmas Markets, late Nov–late Dec, next to Europa-Center, at Alexanderplatz, at the Opernpalais (Unter den Linden) and at some local markets
Silvester in Berlin, New Year’s Eve celebrations, 31 Dec, huge street party between Brandenburg Gate and the Siegessaüle (website: www.silvester-berlin.de), plus numerous balls and parties, throughout the city

Cost of Living

One-litre bottle of mineral water: ¬1
33cl bottle of beer: ¬1
Financial Times newspaper: ¬2.40
36-exposure colour film: ¬4.80
City-centre bus ticket: ¬2.10
Adult football ticket: ¬12.50–50
Three-course meal with wine/beer: ¬15–40

1 Euro (¬1) = £0.68; US$1.19; C$1.39; A$1.56
Currency conversion rates as of October 2005